Nibbles and news from the food and culinary scene.
Having pals in the industry is a nice perk, so I was delighted when an out-of-town friend who was staying at La Fonda suggested we dine at La Plazuela in the historic hotel. The airy and festive dining room is one of the prettiest in town, and I am a big fan of their chef de cuisine, Rafael Zamora Esquer. Esquer and I, along with Executive Chef Lane Warner, have cooked together at multiple events, and as his Facebook friend, I have noticed some gorgeous food shots on his feed. La Plazuela’s regular menu is designed to show off Northern New Mexico cuisine, a clever mix of enchiladas, tableside guacamole, and gourmet dishes, all made with a NewMex twist. But when I confirmed with Chef that he was, in fact, working that night, he said he would love to also send out some dishes he’s working on. How could I refuse?
Our hostess with the mostest, manager Deborah Newman, seated us center court next to the trickling fountain. Despite the fact it was a Monday night, the room was full and buzzing. What followed was a delicious parade of dishes both from the menu and from Chef Esquer’s creative incubations, with wine paired with care by Newman.
You must also try the pineapple upside-down cake. Newman shared that it brought a customer to tears with a memory of her mother’s version. Favorite wines from the night included an old-fashioned Sonoma-Cutrer Russian River chardonnay (the one you drank all through the ’80s) and a bright The Prisoner Napa Valley cab — great with the beef.
Chef Esquer has some tasty ideas for a menu that would further show off his considerable talents and palate that sweep multiple cuisines from around the world. I have a call into La Fonda GM Rik Blyth to implore him to give Rafael a room where he can dabble. (Meantime, La Plazuela rocks!) lafondasantafe.com/la-plazuela — J.V.
