How did Sage Bakehouse create the best vibe in Santa Fe?
In the past year, I’ve enjoyed approximately 150 scrambled egg tartines and vanilla bean cream cheese Danishes from Sage Bakehouse.
Beloved by all of us, Sage became my sanctuary after a concussion last June. After months in a quiet house or dimly lit office, I needed to reacquaint myself with the bustle of everyday life. I walked into Sage with a battered nervous system and general post-injury fragility. The staff’s competent friendliness and consistently excellent food took me by the hand and sat me in the corner with a pastry while they managed everyday life.
Sometime between my 50th and 100th tartine, crowds got easier and I thought I could ease off of my Sage mornings. I was finishing my coffee while a quickly forming line reached out the door.
Several front-of-house staff appeared to serve customers, and Fredy Leon walked into the dining room with food for a table. Just then, a regular customer of advanced years stepped inside and set her things down at the community table as she got into line. Leon delivered the food, and on his way back to the kitchen, he grabbed an available chair from an occupied table and switched it for the backless stool at the community table where the regular had placed her things. He did it so smoothly that had I not been watching him, I wouldn’t have noticed.
I ordered another 80 or so tartines and figured I should ask how they get it so right.
Carlos Mendez, Marco Guajardo, Alan Chavez, Chris Mencos, Leon and Ricky Lozoya take care of the front of house at Sage with consistent support from owner and exemplar Andrée Falls. Leon and Mencos are managers and met Falls as children, visiting Sage where Chris’ father, Dorian Mencos, and Fredy’s stepfather, Alexander Lopez, worked as bakers. They’re all still there.
I asked Falls how they do it — I didn’t have to say what “it” was.
She’s read the reviews — and she created Sage. Falls stressed the importance of simple systems that support people to do their work without being overwhelmed, supporting people to develop the skills they need, compensating them well and building a business as a contribution to the larger community. She glowed when talking about the front-of-house team — their individual talents and potential, and the shared effort that has brought them to this place of collective strength.
Chris Mencos and Leon knew exactly what I meant when I asked about the Sage vibe. Mencos referred to the flow-state the front of house maintains, noting that even when he can’t see the dining room, he can hear or feel a shift when things are a bit off. Leon talked about the importance of accountability and support with co-workers when they don’t bring the energy and presence necessary to create and hold flow.
Their pride in their work and work community is remarkable. They play soccer and have a Discord channel with their co-workers. They’re at similar places in their lives and support one another as new parents, partners and aspirational homeowners. They are firmly united in their admiration for and deep appreciation of Falls.
Leon, Falls and Mencos told me the same thing: Falls has taught them everything she knows; the rest is experience. I am so glad I get to share the experience with them.
Kimberly Corbitt is the leader of Biscochito, a Santa Fe-based company that provides care at home. Her column on business and management appears every two weeks. Contact her at kimberly.corbitt@biscochito.org.
